This is the English translation of the memoir I originally published in Turkish in 2024.
One September morning, I set off from Kavala (Καβάλα) in Petros’s car. Petros, a native of Kavala, was my travelling companion on my first visit to Komnina (Κομνηνά), the village where my grandfather was born[1]. Komnina is a village in Xanthi (Ξάνθη), Greece, formerly known as Kurular. On the road to Komnina, I thought of my grandfather and my childhood in the village of Gündoğdu (Palladari – Παλλαδάρι, or Filedar) in Bursa, Türkiye. As we slowly climbed the Rhodope Mountains, the scent of olive and fig trees filled my nostrils. Whilst chatting with Petros, I was getting lost in the beauty of the road. I was due to meet another Greek friend, Dimitris, in the village square in a few minutes.

Dimitris and I
Months ago, I had posted on a Facebook group that I wanted to visit my grandfather’s village in Greece. Dimitris messaged me straight away, saying he could meet me and show me around. Dimitris was, like me, a descendant of someone who’d been part of the population exchange between Greece and Türkiye that took place in 1924. My grandparents’ route of forced migration was from Kurular in (what is now) Greece to the village of Gündoğdu in Bursa, whilst his grandparents’ was from Samsun-Erikli (the Black Sea coast in Türkiye, where Pontic Greeks used to live) to Komnina. Different routes, similar lives. Dimitris works in livestock farming; he’s actually from another old Turkish village right next to Komnina, whilst his wife is a Giresun (another Black Sea city in Türkiye) exchangee from Komnina. When we arrived in Komnina, we met in the village square and sat down under a mighty tree dating back to Ottoman times. Turkish/Greek coffee was served straight away, and we began to chat. Dimitris had also visited Samsun, just as I had visited Komnina. We began to talk about Komnina and its history.

Kurular has become Komnina
Today, only 150 people live in Komnina. Over time, the young people have migrated to the big cities and abroad. Pontic Greeks from different regions of the Black Sea have settled in the village’s three main neighbourhoods. We had a bit of a laugh together about this situation – different migrant groups in the same village… It’s the same in our village, Gündoğdu… the Pomaks and the people from Xanthi. Even though they’ve breathed the same dusty air on the road, these brothers from different mothers don’t easily come together. Dimitris’ ancestors and mine took different migration routes, but our stories are the same. Our grandfathers and grandmothers, torn from their lands and homes, are what unite us. Whilst talking to Dimitris, I was glancing around me. Behind us sat a villager rolling his tobacco; a couple of people in the distance…that was all. A quiet, peaceful village. In the square where we were sitting, a statue of a woman caught my eye. I asked straight away, a little fearfully; clearly, this woman was either a heroine or a victim. ‘I hope the Turks didn’t kill her,’ I thought to myself. It turns out that the statue was of someone who had been murdered by Bulgarian soldiers during the Second World War. We spoke a little about those difficult times; Dimitris’s and Petros’s eyes welled up. As if to change the mood, we immediately started talking about what remained of the Turks. The coffee was finished, and it was time to head to Komnina to find the footprints left by my people who lived in Kurular.

The Kurular in Komnina: My Grandfather’s Footsteps
I continued to look around me with curious eyes. Trees, houses, neighbourhoods. But where were my grandfather’s footsteps? What remained of the Turks in Komnina? Were stories all that remained of the Kurular, or was there a tree, a piece of stone? If so, where? I asked Dimitris what was left. He pointed to the tree we were sitting under and another one a little further on – these two trees were all that remained from the Ottoman era. I got up and took some photos of them. I felt a twinge of sadness; was there nothing else? A house, a wall? One of the neighbourhoods in the village was called ‘Feleki’: Felek, as we know in Turkish (the word is in fact of Arabic origin). Felek was said to have been the richest man in the village in his day; the neighbourhood was named after him. Only his house and another, now in ruins, remained from the Turks. A flicker of (un)happiness stirred within me… So there were things after all: perhaps I would see the paths my grandfather and great-grandmother had walked. The three of us hopped straight into Petros’s car and began to drive slowly through the village. We saw a church on the left. Dimitris said that the church had probably been a mosque before; I wasn’t surprised. In Türkiye, too, churches have been converted into mosques. ‘Better that than being demolished and destroyed,’ I thought to myself. As we drove along a narrow dirt track, Dimitris and I were chatting. When the Pontic Greeks migrated to Komnina, they’d lived in the same houses as the Turks for the first year or two. ‘Wasn’t that difficult?’ I asked. He smiled; it hadn’t been easy. But ‘they lived there very happily; we’ve never heard anything bad about the Turks living with them from our grandparents,’ said Dimitris. ‘Mums used to speak Turkish to their babies back then,’ said Dimitris; Turkish was a language spoken in the village.

As we made our way along the dirt track, we suddenly came to a halt. I couldn’t see much on either side. ‘There’s one of the two houses left in the village from the Turks,’ said Dimitris – a ruin. It had no roof, just stones, but you could still make out where the windows and doors had been. I climbed inside the house; right next to it stood a fig tree, just like the one back in our village in Bursa, Gündoğdu. I started filming a video to send to my dad, while at the same time describing what I was seeing in the video – I had to speak at that moment, as if I was talking to my dad, because I was walking through history, stepping right on top of it. Perhaps my great-great-grandfather, my great-great-grandmother, or my grandfather had once entered and left this house, walked past it, or strolled through this neighbourhood. Thorns were pricking and cutting my legs, but I paid no heed. I took photographs and breathed in the history of the house. I examined the stones on the walls. I bent down and picked up a tiny stone from between two larger ones. I clutched the stone tightly in my palm. This stone was a witness to history; it was history itself. I put it in my pocket straight away. I told Dimitris about it, feeling a little embarrassed; he laughed and said, ‘I wish you’d picked up a bigger stone.’ I couldn’t shake off the spell the house had cast over me. I walked back to the car. I was no longer the same person after stepping inside that house. Dimitris told me he would show me Feleki’s house, the second house, but he said sadly that the exterior had been re-plastered and that nothing of its history remained. We arrived at the house; it was a large house, but unfortunately it didn’t leave the same impression on me as the previous, dilapidated house had.

Stone and Wine
We got back into the car. ‘There’s a hotel at the entrance to the village; we’re going there now,’ said Dimitris. At first I didn’t understand why – why on earth were we going to a hotel? I’d seen this hotel online before; its architecture resembled a stone castle, and it looked like a lovely place. When we stopped in front of the stone walls, I realised why we’d come here. Some of these stones were apparently left over from Turkish houses and had been used in the hotel’s construction. I was delighted to see yet another remnant of the Turks. As we entered the hotel garden, we were chatting; I was telling him about our village in Bursa and how the Pomaks and the people of Xanthi lived together. ‘Ah,’ said Dimitris, ‘the people who run this hotel are Pomaks, too.’ In fact, as soon as we’d finished exploring the garden and entered the hotel, I realised straight away that there was someone in the lobby who looked familiar: a blonde, blue-eyed, smiling woman. Just like a Pomak from Gündoğdu village in Türkiye… While we were walking around the garden, Dimitris mentioned that the people running the hotel make their own wine from the grapes grown in the village. We bought a bottle of wine each as a souvenir. We left there and headed straight for an old royal tomb at the entrance to the village. The tomb was closed, but our main reason for being there wasn’t the royal tomb; it was to see the vineyards. The grapes from my grandfather’s village, the white wine made out of them, and a journey through and beyond history. We dropped Dimitris off in the village centre; I thanked him, and we said our goodbyes. I told him to get in touch with me if he ever wanted to visit Bursa or Sweden. I also made a promise to him: I’d told him there was a book about the history of the village of Gündoğdu, written by one of our fellow villagers. He was very interested in the book, so I promised to find it and send it to him[2].


The return journey from the Rhodope Mountains to Kavala
On the way back, Petros took me to Kavala via a different route: we climbed up into the mountains and then came back down again. Petros is a lovely chap. I’d taken an instant liking to him when we met at Thessaloniki Airport. On the way back from the Rhodope Mountains, we had a good chat; he told me he’d really enjoyed the trip, too. We talked about our favourite foods, football, our home towns, the things we both love, and our worries. When we arrived in Kavala, he showed me the block of flats where he was born and the neighbourhoods where he lived. I still had a few more days in Kavala. Beautiful Kavala… Its shopkeepers, fishermen, börek-masters, the sea, the air, the streets, its history, and its people. One evening, while walking along the seafront in Kavala, I said to myself: I am no longer just Olcay from Gündoğdu in Bursa; I am Olcay, the grandson of Abdurrahim from the village of Komnina/Kurular in the Rhodope Mountains.
Final Words
Stone and Wine
A small stone, a bottle of white wine
Does it matter if we’re Turkish, Greek, or Arab?
We’ve gazed upon the same sea
We’ve shared meals together
Even if a hundred years pass
We’ll meet again, by sea and by land
Kurular becomes Komnina
Palladari becomes Gündoğdu
Even if our grandfathers may be cross,
The daughters and sons shall be friends.
Olcay Sert, 29 September 2024
Taş ve Şarap
Bir küçük taş, bir şişe beyaz şarap
Fark eder mi Türk, Yunan, Arap
Aynı denize bakmışız
Beraber aş yapmışız
Geçse de yüz yıl aradan
Buluşuruz denizden ve karadan
Kurular olur Komnina
Filedar olur Gündoğdu
Dedeler kızıp darılsa da, dosttur mübadilin kızı oğlu.
Olcay Sert, 29 Eylül 2024

[1] As I learned after I wrote the original text in Turkish, the village was attacked by the Bulgarian soldiers during the Balkan war in 1913, and my grandfather was born either in the neighbouring village or in a neighbouring town like Drama or Xanthi. The official documents point to Drama but the specific place is not known.
[2] I found and read the book, and sent a copy to Dimitris. I will write more about this book on my blog and elsewhere.

















